Discover Ubud Royal Palace (Puri Saren Agung)—history, Legong dances, and cultural secrets. Insider tips for visiting Bali’s royal gem. Plan your trip!
1. Introduction
The first time I stumbled upon Ubud Palace, I wasn’t even looking for it. Wandering down Jalan Raya Ubud after a chaotic morning at the Monkey Forest, I turned a corner and froze. There it was: a towering, intricately carved gateway, its moss-kissed stone glowing in the golden Bali sunlight. From beyond the walls, the metallic chimes of a gamelan orchestra spilled into the street, pulling me closer like a siren’s call. Without a second thought, I followed the music—and stepped into a world where history, art, and spirituality collide.
Welcome to Ubud Palace, or as the locals call it, Puri Saren Ubud. Built in the 1800s, this royal residence isn’t just a relic of Bali’s past—it’s a living, breathing heartbeat of the island’s culture. While the current royal family still calls it home, they’ve generously opened their courtyards to travelers, offering a rare glimpse into Bali’s regal heritage. By day, it’s a serene oasis of lotus ponds and ancient carvings; by night, it transforms into a stage for hypnotic Legong dances, where dancers’ flickering fingers and gilded costumes seem to whisper centuries-old stories.
In this guide, I’ll unpack everything that makes Ubud Palace a non-negotiable stop on your Bali itinerary. From its architectural secrets to the best time to snag a front-row seat for those iconic performances, we’re diving deep. Oh, and I’ll confess my rookie mistake of showing up after sunset (spoiler: don’t be me). Let’s go!
2. The History of Ubud Palace: A Royal Legacy
2.1 From Royal Residence to Cultural Icon
Walking into Ubud Palace feels like stepping into a time machine. The moment you pass under its weathered stone gateway, the hum of motorbikes on Jalan Raya Ubud fades, replaced by the rustle of frangipani leaves and the faint scent of incense. But this isn’t just a pretty backdrop for Instagram—every crack in the walls, every moss-covered statue, has a story to tell.
Built in 1800 by Ida Tjokorda Putu Kandel, Ubud Palace (officially Puri Saren Agung) was designed as the epicenter of Ubud’s royal power. For over two centuries, it’s been the official residence of the Ubud royal family, a dynasty that once ruled this corner of Bali with a blend of spiritual authority and political savvy. What’s fascinating is how the palace survived Dutch colonialism in the early 20th century. Unlike many Indonesian palaces that fell to colonization, Puri Saren adapted. The royals cleverly negotiated with the Dutch, preserving their autonomy and turning Ubud into a sanctuary for Balinese art and culture.
Today, the palace wears its history proudly. While much of Bali modernized, Puri Saren remains a symbol of resilience. Its courtyards, once reserved for royal ceremonies and strategy meetings with village leaders, now host wide-eyed travelers and clattering camera shutters. But don’t let the tourist crowds fool you—this is still very much a living palace.
2.2 The Royal Family Today
“Wait, people actually live here?” I whispered to my Balinese guide, Ketut, as we passed a flower-strewn shrine near the family’s private quarters. He chuckled. “Of course! The royal family opens their home to visitors, but this is still their puri.”
Though Bali’s monarchy no longer holds political power, the Ubud royals remain cultural custodians. You might spot Ida Tjokorda Putra Sukawati, the current prince, during temple festivals or even chatting with visitors at the palace’s evening dance performances. The family actively supports local artisans, and their influence is everywhere—from the traditional dances staged in the courtyard to the preservation of ancient rituals like Melasti (a purification ceremony).
Pro Tip: Keep an eye out for ceremonial decorations. If the palace is draped in vibrant penjor bamboo poles or intricate lamak palm-leaf carvings, a major Hindu festival like Galungan is likely underway. Ask a guide about it—they’ll often share stories you won’t find in guidebooks.
For a deeper dive into Ubud’s royal past, the Bali Tourism Board’s historical page offers context on how palaces like Puri Saren shaped the island’s identity.
3. Architecture & Design: A Balinese Masterpiece
3.1 Exploring the Heart of Ubud Palace
Let’s get one thing straight: Ubud Palace isn’t just pretty. It’s a masterclass in Balinese aesthetics, where every curve, carving, and cobblestone has purpose. As I wandered through its labyrinth of courtyards, my neck craned upward at the candi bentar (split gate)—a signature of Balinese architecture symbolizing the balance between good and evil. Flanked by mossy guardian statues and frangipani trees, this entrance alone could occupy your camera roll for hours. But trust me, the real magic lies deeper inside.
The palace’s layout follows the tripartite concept of traditional Balinese design:
- Utama (sacred zone): Home to family temples and shrines, where offerings smoke gently in the breeze.
- Madya (middle zone): A transitional space with open pavilions (bale) for gatherings.
- Nista (outer zone): Public areas like performance stages and gardens.
I was struck by how the palace harmonizes with nature. Stone pathways twist past lotus ponds, while towering banyan trees shade moss-coated statues of Hindu deities. Even the walls tell stories—look closely, and you’ll spot intricate carvings of the Ramayana epic, their details softened by decades of tropical rains.
Compared to other Balinese palaces (puri), Puri Saren Ubud feels intimate. There’s no grand throne room or sprawling complex—instead, it’s a mosaic of smaller pavilions and courtyards, each with a unique role. The Royal Ceremony Hall, for instance, dazzles with gold-leafed pillars, while the Bale Bengong (rest pavilion) offers a breezy spot to eavesdrop on chattering geckos.
For deeper context on Balinese design principles, UNESCO’s page on Bali’s Subak Cultural Landscape explains how architecture and spirituality intertwine across the island.
3.3 Symbolism in Every Stone
“This isn’t just decoration,” my guide Wayan said, pointing to a serpent statue coiled around a pillar. “It’s a naga, protecting the palace from evil spirits.”
Balinese architecture is a language of symbols. The split gates (candi bentar) represent the mountainous spine of Bali, while the alignments of pavilions follow sacred directions (kaja-kelod: mountainward to seaward). Even the gardens are deliberate: lotus ponds symbolize purity, and frangipani trees (called jepun here) are believed to house deities.
I’ll never forget stumbling upon a group of women weaving penjor—tall, curved bamboo poles decorated with coconut leaves and flowers—for an upcoming festival. “These honor the gods and our ancestors,” one explained, her hands never pausing. It hit me then: Ubud Palace isn’t frozen in time. It’s a stage where daily rituals and ancient traditions play out in tandem.
Pro Tip: Visit in the late afternoon when the light slants through the gateways, casting long shadows that make carvings “pop” for photos. And don’t miss the wantilan (performance pavilion)—its raised platform and acoustic design prove Balinese builders were the OG sound engineers.
4. Cultural Significance: Dance, Rituals, and Community
4.1 Where Tradition Dances to Life
I’ll admit it: I almost skipped Ubud Palace’s evening dance performance. “Touristy,” I thought. But as the first notes of the gamelan echoed through the courtyard, I realized how wrong I was. The dancers emerged like celestial beings, their fingers flickering like candle flames, their faces etched with expressions that seemed to transcend time. This wasn’t a show—it was a centuries-old dialogue between humans and the divine.
Ubud Palace Dancing is legendary for a reason. Most nights, the palace’s wantilan (open-air pavilion) hosts traditional performances like the Legong Dance, where young girls in gilded costumes tell tales of mythical kings, or the Kecak Fire Dance, a hypnotic chorus of 50 chanting men encircling flickering torches. The French-speaking visitors in the crowd might call it Ubud Palace Danse, but no translation is needed—the dancers’ movements speak a universal language.
Pro tip: Grab a seat early (the front row fills fast) and watch the dancers’ eyes. Their exaggerated glances and subtle gestures are part of a codified storytelling system called agem, unique to Balinese dance.
4.2 A Stage for the Divine
Beyond the tourist-facing performances, Ubud Palace pulses with rituals known only to those who linger. On my third visit, I stumbled upon a Melasti ceremony—a pre-Nyepi (Balinese New Year) purification ritual. Women in lace kebayas balanced towers of fruit offerings on their heads, while men in white udeng headbands chanted prayers. The air smelled of clove incense and frangipani, and for a moment, I felt like I’d slipped into a hidden layer of Bali.
The palace remains a vital hub for Hindu-Balinese festivals like Odalan (temple anniversaries) and Galungan, which celebrates the victory of good over evil. During these times, the courtyards overflow with banten (offerings), and the royal family leads processions through Ubud’s streets.
4.3 The Water Palace Mix-Up
Quick clarification: Don’t confuse Ubud Palace with the Ubud Water Palace. That’s a common misnomer! The actual water palace—a maze of lotus ponds and stepping stones—is Tirta Gangga, a 90-minute drive east. Ubud Palace does have serene garden pools, but they’re part of its royal grounds, not a standalone “water palace.”
4.4 Why This Matters
Ubud Palace isn’t just a relic—it’s a living stage where Bali’s cultural heartbeat thrums loudest. Whether you’re watching a dancer’s pink hibiscus crown tremble mid-spin or spotting a royal family member blessing a newborn during a ceremony, you’re witnessing a culture that refuses to fossilize.
Pro Tip: Check the Balinese Pawukon calendar (ask your hotel) before visiting. If your trip overlaps with a major ceremony, you’ll see the palace at its most magical—and crowded.
5. Visitor Experience: What to See & Do
5.1 Navigating Ubud Palace Like a Pro
Let’s cut to the chase: Ubud Palace is not a sprawling, all-day attraction. It’s a compact cultural gem you can explore in 30 minutes—but to rush through it would be a crime. Here’s how to savor every second.
5.2 Practical Information
- Address: Ubud Palace Jalan Raya Ubud, Gianyar Regency, Bali. Click Here for go to Google Maps.
- Opening Hours: Grounds open daily from 8 AM–7 PM; evening dances start at 7:30 PM.
- Entrance Fee: Free! But donations (10k–20k IDR) are appreciated to support upkeep.
- Best Time to Visit: Early morning (8–9 AM) to avoid crowds, or around 6:30 PM to snag seats for the dance performance.
Pro Tip: The palace sits smack in the middle of Ubud’s busiest street. If you’re driving, park at Ubud Market’s lot (5k IDR/hr) and walk 2 minutes. Trust me, battling Jalan Raya’s scooter chaos is not the Bali zen you signed up for.
5.3 Must-See Highlights
1. The Iconic Gates
Your Instagram feed is begging for a shot under the palace’s candi bentar (split gate). The morning sun lights up its carvings best, but for moody shadows, swing by late afternoon. Pro photographers lurk here—don’t be shy to ask them to snap your pic!
2. Evening Dance Performances
The Legong Dance at Ubud Palace is Bali’s answer to Broadway. Tickets cost 100k IDR (book at the entrance or via your hotel). Grab a floor cushion in the front row, but avoid the very center—that’s where the gamelan orchestra’s gongs might leave you half-deaf (ask me how I know).
3. Hidden Corners
Most tourists cluster near the gates. Wander deeper to find the family temple (look for smoking offerings) and the royal bale (pavilion) draped in checkered poleng cloth, symbolizing balance.
4. Nearby Gems
- Ubud Market: A 1-minute walk away. Haggle for batik sarongs or mango wood carvings.
- Saraswati Temple: 5 minutes east. Its lotus pond is chef’s kiss at sunset.
- Café Lotus: Across the street. Sip a lychee mojito while the palace glows at dusk.
6. Personal Tips from My Ubud Palace Adventure
6.1 Insider Advice for an Unforgettable Visit
- Arrive Early, Stay Late
During my first visit, I made the rookie mistake of showing up at noon. The midday sun was brutal, and selfie sticks ruled the courtyards. Now, I swear by the golden hours: arrive by 8 AM to wander the grounds alone, or linger until 6 PM when the stone walls glow amber. Pro tip: The palace gates face east, so mornings offer the best lighting for photos. - Sarong Not Optional (Even If It’s “Optional”)
Sure, guards don’t enforce dress codes here like at temples. But when I ditched my sarong for shorts, I got looks from locals arranging offerings. Borrow one from your hotel or grab a batik wrap at Ubud Market (haggle it down to 50k IDR). Trust me, you’ll blend in better—and respect the Royal Palace Ubud Bali’s sanctity. - Chat Up the Coconut Leaf Weavers
Near the entrance, you’ll spot women crafting intricate canang sari offerings from palm fronds. I spent 20 minutes learning how they weave these daily prayers—and scored an invitation to a nearby family ceremony. These convos cost nothing but often gift you Bali’s best stories. - Dance Tickets: Skip the “Guided Tour” Upsell
Some touts near Ubud Palace Jalan Raya Ubud will try to sell you “VIP” dance tickets with “backstage access.” Spoiler: There’s no backstage. Buy standard 100k IDR tickets at the palace gate instead. For prime seats, arrive 30 minutes early and claim a front-row cushion. - The “Water Palace” Isn’t Here—But This Is Better
Confused by mentions of Ubud Water Palace? That’s actually Tirta Gangga, an hour’s drive away. Instead of rushing off, sit by Puri Saren Ubud’s lotus pond at dusk. As the first gamelan notes drift through the air, you’ll realize: this intimate, living palace beats any water garden.
7. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Is Ubud Royal Palace (Puri Saren Ubud) the same as Ubud Palace Bali or Puri Saren Agung? Why does it have multiple names?
A: Yes! All three names refer to the same site. Puri Saren Agung is the official Balinese name, while Ubud Palace Bali and Ubud Royal Palace are English translations. The multiple names stem from linguistic preferences (local vs. international audiences) and historical references.
Q: What is the historical significance of Ubud Palace, and does the Balinese royal family still reside there?
A: Built in 1800, Ubud Palace served as the political and cultural hub of the Ubud Kingdom. Today, it’s a living heritage site—the royal family still resides in private quarters and actively participates in cultural preservation.
Q: Where is Ubud Palace located on Jalan Raya Ubud (Ubud Gianyar Regency, Bali)? What landmarks surround it?
A: It’s at the heart of Ubud’s main street, Jalan Raya Ubud. Key neighbors include Ubud Market (1-minute walk), Saraswati Temple, and Café Lotus, famous for its palace-facing dining terrace.
Q: Is Ubud Water Palace the same as Puri Saren Agung, or is it a different site (e.g., Tirta Gangga)?
A: Different! Ubud Water Palace is a misnomer. The true water palaces are Tirta Gangga and Taman Ujung in East Bali. Ubud Palace has serene garden ponds but isn’t a “water palace.”
Q: What traditional dances or cultural performances (e.g., Legong, Kecak) are held at Ubud Palace Dancing events, and how can I book tickets?
A: Nightly performances include the Legong Dance (graceful storytelling) and Kecak Fire Dance (hypnotic chanting). Tickets (100k IDR) are sold at the gate or via hotels.
Q: Are performances like Ubud Palace Danse (likely a mistranslation of “dance”) held daily, and what time do they start?
A: Yes! “Danse” is French for dance, likely a translation quirk. Performances start at 7:30 PM daily, rain or shine.
Q: Is there an entrance fee to visit Ubud Palace (Puri Saren Agung), or is it free to explore the courtyards?
A: Exploring the courtyards is free, but donations are welcome. Evening dances require separate tickets.
Q: What are the opening hours of Ubud Palace, and are there restrictions on accessing certain areas?
A: Open 8 AM–7 PM daily. The royal family’s residence and some temples are off-limits, but courtyards and performance areas are accessible.
Q: What architectural features distinguish Ubud Palace as an example of traditional Balinese royal design?
A: Look for candi bentar (split gates), tripartite zoning (sacred to public zones), intricate stone carvings, and open-air pavilions (bale) for gatherings.
Q: Are there temples or shrines within the palace complex that visitors can enter?
A: Yes, but access depends on ceremonies. The family temple near the main courtyard is often visible, but respect barriers and quiet signs.
Q: Does the Ubud royal family still play a ceremonial or political role in Bali today?
A: While no longer politically powerful, the family leads cultural and religious ceremonies, like Galungan festivals, and supports local arts.
Q: How does the palace balance being a tourist attraction with its role as a royal residence?
A: The family opens public areas (gardens, performance spaces) while keeping private quarters restricted. Tourism revenue helps fund preservation.
Q: What shops, cafes, or attractions are within walking distance of Ubud Palace?
A: Ubud Market (souvenirs), Café Lotus (dining), ARMA Museum (art), and Monkey Forest Road (boutiques) are all <5 minutes away.
Q: Can I combine a visit to Ubud Palace with a trip to the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary or Campuhan Ridge Walk?
A: Absolutely! The Monkey Forest is a 15-minute walk, and Campuhan Ridge is 20 minutes by scooter. Pair them for a half-day Ubud itinerary.
Q: Are there dress codes or etiquette rules for visiting Ubud Palace, especially during ceremonies?
A: Dress modestly (cover shoulders/knees). During ceremonies, stay quiet, avoid pointing feet at shrines, and never touch offerings.
Q: Is photography allowed inside the palace grounds, including during dance performances?
A: Yes, but no flash during performances. Avoid photographing restricted areas or ceremonies without permission.
Q: Why is the palace sometimes called Palais Royal d’Ubud (French term)? Is this an official name?
A: It’s an unofficial French translation used in some travel materials. The official name remains Puri Saren Agung.
Q: Is there a “water palace” in Ubud, or is this term confused with Tirta Gangga or Taman Ujung in East Bali?
A: Confusion alert! Ubud has no water palace. The term refers to Tirta Gangga or Taman Ujung in East Bali.
Q: Are guided tours available to learn about Ubud Palace’s history and connection to Balinese royalty?
A: Yes! Local guides (50k–100k IDR/hour) linger near the entrance. They’ll explain history, architecture, and royal traditions.
Q: Does the palace host special events, such as Galungan or Nyepi celebrations, open to the public?
A: Yes! During Galungan (Balinese New Year), the palace decks out in penjor bamboo poles. Visitors can observe, but participate respectfully.
8. Final Thoughts
Standing in Ubud Palace’s central courtyard on my last evening in Bali, I watched as a gecko darted across a centuries-old stone wall. Nearby, a dancer adjusted her golden headdress before the night’s performance, while a shopkeeper from Jalan Raya Ubud hurried past with an armful of canang sari offerings. In that moment, it hit me: Puri Saren isn’t just a monument. It’s a bridge—between past and present, visitors and locals, the earthly and the divine.
Whether you’re marveling at the Royal Palace Ubud Bali’s hand-carved gates or losing yourself in the flicker of a Legong dancer’s fingertips, this place reminds us that Bali’s magic lies in its contradictions. It’s a royal home where tourists wander freely. A 19th-century structure that breathes with 21st-century energy. A spiritual sanctuary nestled between Starbucks scooters and souvenir stalls.
As you plan your visit, remember: Ubud Palace rewards those who slow down. Sit awhile in its gardens. Let the gamelan rhythms sync with your pulse. And when you pass the unmarked doorway to the royal family’s quarters, smile—you’re not just a spectator here, but a guest in a living story.
So, ready to step into Bali’s beating heart? Pack your sarong, charge your camera, and don’t you dare miss that 7:30 PM dance. Just save a café seat for me—I’ll be the one with the lychee mojito, still trying to decode those stone-carved Ramayana scenes.
Selamat jalan! (Happy travels!)
9. Infographic
